Tuesday, December 17, 2013

South Korea Trip 2013: Day 7 in Busan (Jagalchi Market, Gukje Market, Haeundae Beach, Seomyeon)


View of the port from top of Jagalchi Market building
It's been a week 'living' in South Korea and I think I can get used to some things Koreans do everyday here. Public transportation is a like a gift from the heavens (compared to KL's train and bus services) and the weather is fine on most days (unlike the unpredictable rain in KL). A quick check on the daily forecast to decide on how warm to dress is a habit I've adopted, and I sorely miss that ritual once I'm back in tropics.
Houses up the hill in the distance near Gukje Market
After a quick breakfast near the hotel, I ventured to Gukje Market to get some pots and pans to bring home. It's pretty much like Namdaemun Market in Seoul, but with far less hustle and bustle and variety merchandise for sale.
GM Music store in Gukje Market, arguably the cheapest shop to get your K-pop albums in Busan
I managed to find a gem in the middle of Gukje Market as I strolled along. In the middle of one of the main intersections of the market you'll see this K-pop CD store, GM Music. It's quite difficult to miss since they are the only shop selling CDs (I think) in this market. The prices here are also lower than that of CD shops in Seoul. I really regretted buying my CDs in Seoul and lugging it back all the way on the KTX...
Jagalchi Market, seafood haven
From Gukje Market, it's just a short walk passing BIFF Square before crossing over to Jagalchi Market. If you are a seafood lover, you must make a stop here when you are in Busan. Sea creatures, alive and dead, are for sale and also for on-the-spot consumption.
Ladies selling fresh catches from the sea outside the main Jagalchi Market building
Since I love seafood, I wanted to visit this place very much. But, I really dislike going to wet markets since young (bad experience, yo) and I really tried my best not to get my shoes wet. You can see ladies selling fresh seafood even outside the main Jagalchi Building.
Huge mussels on sale
I'm a huge of mussels and I see them selling huge nets of them! So tempted to buy but how would I cook or bring them home? Just walk past, just walk past...
Sea squirts
Wriggling live seafood are displayed for sale everywhere you look once you enter the first floor of Jagalchi Market.
Huge snow crabs
A Korean couple who manned a stall wanted to sell some snow crabs to my travel partners and I. Thinking we're from Hong Kong, they asked for a really high price for one snow crab. I think they mentioned around RM200+ for one snow crab, inclusive of cooking fee in their food stall upstairs. We waved them off, saying we'll look around. They were quite friendly even when we didn't make a purchase, and gave us their name card before we walked off.
Live abalones!
There were also abalones on sale, all wriggling away. I felt it was cruel to see them displayed for a customer to come and buy and send it for the cooking pot, yet I was fascinated to see a real live abalone for the first time. I'm a city girl at heart, no doubt!
Fresh huge scallops
I also saw these fresh and juicy scallops that really made me want to eat them on the spot. They were so huge I think I could only fit 2 of these on my palm.
Oops... here's the octopus!
And don't forget those huge octopus swimming in the tanks! The only octopus I see daily is those small and cute little ones sold at Japanese sushi joints in KL...
Oase Seafood Buffet at Jagalchi Market
Probably the most lunch I've ever eaten in South Korea is my buffet lunch at Oase Seafood Buffet at Level 5, Jagalchi Market. Some friends recommended this place to my travel partner since they had a bad experience with the seafood served by those small little stalls (Level 2) which cooked the seafood bought straight from the market (Level 1).

Lunch is served from 12pm to 2.30pm and since I went there on a weekend, I paid a higher price than for weekdays. The buffet lunch costs 37,500 won (approximately RM113) for adults, but for that price I get to taste all types of fresh seafood as opposed to only 1 type if I buy it straight from the marketplace downstairs.
Assortment of seafood and others served at Oase Seafood Buffet
The variety of food served is quite vast and better than most buffets I've been to KL. The seafood was very fresh, but apart from the sushi counter, other counters served the seafood cooked for hygiene and health purposes. Their kimchi variety was quite good, but still lacking in terms of taste compared to those served at traditional Korean restaurants.
Butter grilled abalones! Yums!
The chefs served the butter grilled abalones around 1pm, when most guests have had their fill of almost half of the variety served. Although most diners were full, there was still a long queue at the counter where they grilled the abalones on the spot. It's super yummy, so obviously people kept going back for more.
Grilled prawns and snow crabs
The grilled prawns and snow crab were just so-so compared to the abalones. I so did not regret for not buying the snow crab at the stall downstairs earlier. Imagine how much crab I would have to eat in a meal... and how many hours I would have spent eating!

For more information on Oase Seafood Buffet, do click on the link.
Exiting Jagalchi Market
After lunch, I left Jagalchi Market and walked across to BIFF Square. You can see it from the picture above. The umbrellas in the distance is where BIFF Square is from Jagalchi Market.
All types of octopus / squid ready to be grilled
My travel partner just must have her grilled octopus since we were in BIFF Square. A cup of grilled octopus like in the picture above costs 5000 won (approximately RM15) and it's really a great chewy snack as you stroll along people-watching or goods-buying!
Busan Tower in the background at Gwangbok Street
After BIFF Square we walked back heading towards our hotel, passing by Gwangbok Street. The street has a lot of upmarket brands and strolling along during the day is as exciting as during the night since all the shops are open for business. The prices here are quite high though, so I did not purchase anything here.
Charles & Keith store along Gwangbok Street
Even Singaporean brand Charles & Keith has a store on Gwangbok Street. It really is a 'global' street in terms of brands as they have a good mix of renowned local and foreign brands here.

From Gwangbok Street we took the subway to Haeundae Beach. It's a really really long ride during peak hour without seating the whole way! My travel partners and I were tired by the time we reached our destination.
The tagline says 'Sun & Fun' at Haeundae Beach, but there is none during autumn
And we realised that it's no 'Sun & Fun' at Haeundae Beach in the middle of autumn. But that doesn't stop us from visiting the famous beach to revel in all it's glory!
Haeundae Beach
Although summer is over and winter is on its way, there are still people lingering around on the beach. Locals and tourists like myself came just to get a glimpse of this famous beach. In autumn, one of the best activities is going shopping at the nearby Haeundae Market, sipping coffee at one of the many cafes facing the beach, or even try your luck at the casino at Paradise Hotel, as pictured in the background above.
Not sure what it is, but I guess it's Bbopki (caramel sweet)
I passed by a stall selling sweets carved into shapes, but there wasn't anyone manning the stall so I couldn't buy one. I guess it's called Bbopki? I'm not 100 percent sure but it looks pretty similar though.
Haeundae Market
Next up is shopping at Haeundae Market! My travel partner found some tin lunch boxes similar to the ones we had at Miss Lee Cafe for 5000 won (approximately RM15) each at a shop selling pots and pans. There are also many shops selling groceries, seafood and vegetables in the marketplace, as well as fried snacks to keep warm.
A replica of Trevi Fountain in Lotte Dept Stores, Seomyeon
From Haeundae Beach, I took the subway and decided to stop at Seomyeon for dinner before heading back to the hotel. If you take the subway, stop at Seomyeon Station and you'll be connected directly into Seomyeon Lotte Departmental Stores and Daehyun Underground Mall.
Youths relaxing while on their mobile phones near the Trevi Fountain
I realised that when Koreans do stop walking and take a rest, they'll definitely flip their phones out, scrolling away. They are really so into online surfing that I finally understand why they are such a fast-paced nation since information gets disseminated really quickly.

I didn't really buy anything at the Daehyun Underground Mall since I've done my fair bit of shopping (and the luggage bag looks like it's gonna burst already) but I managed to get a Hello Kitty tumbler at 12,000 won (approximately RM36) from Lotte Departmental Stores. It's quite a steal compared to those sold at the Hello Kitty Cafe in Hongdae, Seoul.

That ends my seventh day in Busan, South Korea and look out for more posts on my travels in the Land of the Morning Calm!

Read about my experience in Nampodong, BIFF Square and Gwangbok Street (Busan) here!

Read about my experience in Chungmuro, Namdaemun and Myeongdong here!

Read about my experience in Edae, Hongdae, D-Cube City and Dongdaemun here!

Read about my experience in N Seoul Tower, Namsangol Hanok Village, Garosugil and Go-To Mall here!


Read about my experience in Gyeongbukgung, Bukchon Hanok Village, Samcheongdong, Changdeokgung and Insadong here! 

Read about my experience in Busan (KTX and Busan City Night View Tour Bus) here! 

The author is already missing the daily Banana Milk and Chocopie she takes for breakfast, and is wondering when she'll be able to return to South Korea again.

Do follow me on Twitter for the latest updates!  

Thursday, December 12, 2013

South Korea Trip 2013: Day 6 in Busan (KTX, Busan City Night View Tour Bus)

View of Seoul city from Seoul Station
It's time to head back to Busan after spending 4 nights in Seoul. But before I head back, nothing beats a round of last minute shopping at Namdaemun Market since it's nearby Chungmuro Residence.

After checking out the hotel at 12 noon, my travel partners and I headed towards Seoul Station for lunch before boarding the 2.30pm train bound for Busan.


Spicy grilled bulgogi set for lunch at Seoul Station's food court
I chose to have spicy grilled bulgogi set for lunch at the food court in Seoul Station. It's actually my second time eating lunch here (the first was when I arrived from Busan) but yet there were lots of food that piqued my interest. My bulgogi set cost me 7000 won (approximately RM21), which was pricey but looking at the huge portion and the side dishes, it was worth it. It was super yummy too for food court standards!


Lotte Mart is just next to Seoul Station
If you have time to spare before your journey, there are plenty of shops for you to pass some time. Lotte Department Stores is in Seoul Station, while Lotte Mart is adjacent to the building. Just don't get too engrossed in shopping till you miss the train...


KTX train
It's a 2 and half hour's journey from Seoul to Busan, so I tried to sleep on the train to conserve some energy for the night's activities. Since coming to Seoul, everyday is pretty hectic since there are many places to see and go to explore.


At Ulsan station en route to Busan via KTX
There were a few stops along the way from Seoul to Busan, and I managed to capture a picture at the Ulsan station. I noticed that there were many men in military uniforms taking the KTX on my first trip and also on the return trip. I guess taking the KTX is a way of life for Korean soldiers since they have to travel back home or vice versa to their camps.

After landing in Busan at around 5pm, I headed straight back to Busan Tower Hill Hotel, where part of my luggage was stored. I only took a light carry on to Seoul since it was easier to travel via train with it. Thank goodness I did not decide to bring my 30'' luggage bag to Seoul as it would have been difficult to walk up and down stairs with it.

Since I booked a night view tour bus with the tourism staff at Gimhae International Airport upon my arrival, I quickly headed towards Busan Station before the appointed meeting time at 6pm

To book a seat on the night view tour bus in Busan, you have to make a call. For more information, click on the link to learn more about Busan City Night View Tour Bus.


Kimchi fried rice for dinner nearby Busan Station
I had a quick dinner at a small little shop just right outside Busan Station. The ahjumma was friendly and although the set-up was small (only 2 tables), business was brisk. I guess she relied on take-outs as the phone was ringing every few minutes although I was there for less than half an hour.

I had a simple kimchi fried rice set for dinner which only cost me 4500 won (approximately RM13.50), and probably will be the cheapest meal I had so far in Korea. It was very filling although it was simple, and the home-cooked stamp was written all over it when it was served. Somehow I feel like at home although I'm away from home...


The Busan City tour bus
After confirming my reservation, I paid the 10,000 won fee (approximately RM30) to the bus tour staff. The night view course was conducted in Korean since the majority of the visitors on the bus were Koreans (except me and my 2 travel partners). Do Koreans love the night view tour too?

Aboard the Busan City Night View tour bus
The bus was almost full and thank goodness the conductor was good enough to provide earphones and helped us to switch on the screen where information in English will be disseminated throughout the tour.


Screens where information on the night tour is provided
Our first stop was to be Gwangalli Beach, but along the way it was pitch black so I couldn't see much. It was only 6pm yet the night seems to be like 9pm back in KL.


Gwangan Bridge from afar
Our conductor (and bus driver... and also photographer) stopped for us to have a quick 5 minute photo session of the famous Gwangan Bridge, also known as 'Diamond Bridge'. It was so pretty, the way it illuminated the night sky with LED lights.

To make up for the lack of English commentary on board the bus, our conductor tried to explain the sights to us everytime we had a stop. I really appreciate the effort on his part, otherwise I'll be absolutely clueless. 


Busan Aquarium at Haeundae Beach
We had another short stop at Haeundae Beach, and there were many things to see here. I went to the Busan Aquarium but of course did not enter, saw the pretty Gwangan Bridge again, and also took in the long rows of shops (cafes, cafes and more cafes) facing the ocean. A great place to stay in the summer, for sure!

Brightly lit buildings along Haeundae Beach at night
Because it gets dark very early, the night seems long here in Korea. I guess everyone takes dinner then chills at places such as the beach, go shopping or even sit back and relax while sipping hot coffee in cool cafes.

Another form of Korean humour; a stingray as Superman
I find Korean advertisements lacking in terms of huge billboards as opposed to the plenty billboards lining the streets in KL. Advertising in South Korea is more below-the-line on streets, but TV ads are aplenty. Maybe Koreans are TV addicts? But I love their sense of humour. They have the knack of turning a normal thing into something memorable, take for example the picture above. When I think of stingrays, I'll think of Superman from now on. Don't you think they look alike?

Gwangan Bridge view from Geumryonsan
Our last stop was Geumryonsan, a hilltop where we could see Busan city from above. The city was illuminated with lights, but the main attraction was of course, Gwangan Bridge.

That ends my night view tour and after I landed back in Busan Station at 9pm, I went to BIFF Square for supper. Plenty of great food here!

My next adventure to Jagalchi Market awaits in the next post!

Read about my experience in Nampodong, BIFF Square and Gwangbok Street (Busan) here!

Read about my experience in Chungmuro, Namdaemun and Myeongdong here!
 
Read about my experience in Edae, Hongdae, D-Cube City and Dongdaemun here! 

Read about my experience in N Seoul Tower, Namsangol Hanok Village, Garosugil and Go-To Mall here!

Read about my experience in Gyeongbukgung, Bukchon Hanok Village, Samcheongdong, Changdeokgung and Insadong here!

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

South Korea Trip 2013: Day 5 in Seoul (Gyeongbukgung, Bukchon Hanok Village, Samcheongdong, Changdeokgung, Insadong)


Gwanghwamun amidst the hustle and bustle of morning traffic
On the last day of my stay in Seoul I headed out for a sightseeing tour of the Grand Palaces. It was a bright and sunny day, perfect for a day out strolling amongst Korean folks.

My first stop was at Gwanghwamun Square, the entrance to Gyeongbukgung. To get here, take the subway and stop at Gwanghwamun Station, then take Exit 2. It's a 3 minutes walk straight after you get out of the station.
Admiral Yi Shun Shin
Before I head into Gyeongbukgung, I walked around the square to take some pictures of Admiral Yi Shun Shin's and King Sejong's statue.
King Sejong, creator of Hangul, the Korean alphabet
If you have some time to spare, take a short detour to King Sejong's Story, an exhibition hall which is dedicated to the life of Joseon's fourth king. To enter, go behind King Sejong's statue as pictured above and there will be a door which leads to the exhibition hall underground.

Admission is free, so don't miss out if you are curious to learn more about the great King Sejong. The most memorable line for me from King Sejong in the exhibition was "My people cannot write characters even though they have hands, and can't read characters even though they have eyes. Joseon needs new characters that are suitable for the people." And that's how Hangul, the Korean alphabet, came into creation.
Palace guards at Gwanghwamun
I missed out on the guard-changing ceremony at Gwanghwamun, but the crowd was too thick surrounding the place, and that was why I detoured into King Sejong's Story Exhibition. Still, I managed to get some pictures of the palace guards which were still standing in attention there for photo-taking purposes. Their stares were scary though... as if they were going to eat me up!
Gyeongbukgung's main gate in all it's splendour
Gyeongbukgung is the most beautiful and grandest among all palaces, so if you are short on time and can't visit all the palaces, just visit this one.

Admission is 3000 won (approximately RM9), but I bought the Integrated Ticket of Palaces since I planned on going to a few. It costs 10,000 won (approximately RM30) and admits you to the Four Palaces and Jongmyo Shrine.

For more information, click on the link to Korea Tourism Organization's page on Gyeongbukgung.

I couldn't stop but marvel at the colourful roofs of the many gates of Gyeongbukgung. There were countless gates, each one bringing you into a deeper part of the palace.
The king's throne in the chambers where he receives his ministers
Most parts of the interior are cordoned off, but you can lean in for photo-taking purposes. I got a good spot and managed to take a picture of the king's throne amid the huge crowd of tourists. Autumn seems to be the peak season of travel here.
The prettiest shot of the palace roofs with the sun's shining rays
I got lost after walking a while and could only regain my balance after seeing a map. I managed to capture a picture of the stunning palace roofs with the sun shining in the background. I couldn't have chosen a better day for palace sightseeing!
Palace corridors
Walking along the palace corridors brings back memories of scenes of historical dramas such as Jewel in the Palace, Rooftop Prince and Jang Ok Jung. I can picture myself in hanbok walking along these corridors...
Autumn colours in the palace gardens
I reached the palace gardens and the autumn colours were so pretty. I guess even royalty need some sort of space for them to relax and enjoy even though it's within the palace grounds. This place seems great for a stress reliever even for a mere tourist like myself. All the worries and pains (legs and knees) just fly away for a moment.
Samcheongdong
From Gyeongbukgung I walked to Samcheongdong for lunch. It's a pretty upscale place, sort of like Bangsar is to KL. The houses here are sandwiched among shops, cafes and whatnots. Everything seems classy somehow. There's even a Cath Kidston store in the neighbourhood!
Traditional Korean food at its best
It was in Samcheongdong that I had the best ever traditional Korean lunch. I just happened to walk into an alley and my travel partners wanted to try some traditional Korean food. We happened to walk into this restaurant where the staff were pleasant and tried to converse in English with us.

We had (a huge pot) spicy bean paste stew, pajeon and mandu. All the portions were huge and when every one dish came we would burst into giggles since there were only 3 of us and we bet the kitchen staff were wondering how we could finish it all!

Well, in the end we polished it all except for the pajeon which we asked to takeaway. The kind staff neatly wrapped it up in foil for us (which we later reheated back in the hotel room over the stove) and even offered to take a group photo for us! If I am ever back in Samcheongdong, I'll try to find my way back here again!
Bukchon Hanok Village
After lunch, I headed towards Bukchon Hanok Village, where people still lived in Korean traditional houses built during the Joseon era. If you ever get lost, look out for those volunteer tour guides in red, they are plenty of them in this area, and ever ready to help.
A typical street in Bukchon Hanok Village
The houses in Bukchon Hanok Village were well maintained and the roads were free of cars. We were required to keep quiet in this area as there were signage prompting us to bear in mind of the residents' peace of mind.
Ripe persimmons on a tree!
I could hear sounds from the homes; chopping of meat, programmes on TV, chatter of people in the residences. These are the sounds of everyday lives of these people who are still living in their ancestors' homes although it's in the modern times.
A sea of rooftops
Yet they have managed to adapt and a sign of times is you'll see many modern gadgets installed outside the homes such as modems for internet and phone lines.
Changdeokgung grounds
I wanted to visit the Secret Garden in Changdeokgung, so I just followed the road signs that lead here. This palace is smaller in scale compared to Gyeongbukgung, but there is a vast difference among the two. 

While Gyeongbukgung is filled with living quarters, the grounds except for the garden area is devoid of plants. In Changdeokgung, where autumn has come, the trees offer a pretty backdrop for photographs.
Restored palace beams
They closed the Secret Garden pretty early, so I didn't manage to get in. It was only 4pm by the way... :(

Next to the Secret Garden entrance was the entrance to Changyeonggung, so my travel partners took a leisurely stroll amongst the autumn foliage there. Many local folks also seemed to came to enjoy the great weather and beautiful scenery.
Ssamziegil complex in Insadong
Later I went to Insadong for some cultural gift shopping to bring back home. Insadong is a traditional artsy place, and to me it had a similar feel to Hongdae, albeit with a more traditional Korean feel.

Ssamziegil is a complex in Insadong where the more upmarket cultural souvenirs are sold. The prices here are quite pricey, so buy only if you really like the product.
Caricature merchandise on sale in Ssamziegil
There are some quirky and artsy stuff only found here, like the caricature merchandise pictured above. After the artist had drawn a caricature of yourself, you can choose the product where you want it printed on, such as a T-shirt, mugs, and even pillowcase!
Sweet cafe atop Ssamziegil complex
There's also a sweet couple cafe atop the Ssamziegil complex where you can spend some time relaxing with your loved one while enjoying the rooftop sights in Insadong.
Miss Lee Cafe at the entrance of Insadong main street
I went over to Miss Lee Cafe for dinner that night. Since I read about it on blogs and also because it was featured on We Got Married during Yonghwa and Seohyun's visit, I thought that I shouldn't miss out on this quirky and unique cafe since I'm in the neighbourhood.
Lots of notes from previous diners in Miss Lee Cafe
The cafe itself was very small but packed. There were so many things going on at once, notes from previous diners and also pretty decorations everywhere. Definitely the perfect place to go on a date or just a simple hangout with close friends!
Miss Lee Cafe's handwritten menu
Even the menu here is super quirky! It's handwritten and it actually pretty much about the 2 main dishes served in the cafe, dosirak (lunchbox) and patbingsu (Korean ais kacang). What I really loved is the illustration in the menu which shows that you should shake your dosirak before enjoying it fully... :)
Dosirak in Miss Lee Cafe
The dosirak was simple but really tasty and enjoyable. It comes with a complimentary seaweed soup for only 6000 won (approximately RM18). It's probably the cheapest meal I had by far in Seoul, but having it really made my day!
Notice something different?
Oh, and there's something I noticed about the different vibes the shops are channeling whilst walking around in Insadong. Do you notice anything different in the picture above?
Even Etude House's signboard is in Hangul
Well, the secret it out! Only in Insadong, all the shops are required to have their signboards in Hangul, Korean alphabets. Apparently the move is done to retain the traditional atmosphere in the area. Well, I'm glad I managed to see the one and only Starbucks outlet without an English signboard!
Seoul Lantern Festival (Nov 1 to 17, 2013)
After spending a whole day around the palaces and its surrounding areas, it's time to head towards Cheonggyecheon since the Seoul Lantern Festival is on. I'm lucky enough to be in Seoul at the right timing for this event!! :D
Awesome LED display
Although the event was some sort of tourist attraction, there were many locals when I arrived at Cheonggyecheon. Because the annual event is held only around 2 weeks, many people from all walks of life came to see the pretty lanterns at night. There were to many people till they had to do crowd control!
Massive crowds at Cheonggyecheon
Although there were many pretty lanterns, I had difficulty taking pictures because of the huge crowd and lighting since it was dark. I chose to appreciate the lanterns only as I was jostled on by the crowd.

Prettiest lanterns of the night
I managed to capture some pictures of the prettiest lanterns (by far) located under a bridge along Cheonggyecheon. Hope you'll appreciate it!

That ends my last night in Seoul. Tomorrow I'm taking the KTX train down south to Busan!

Read about my experience in Nampodong, BIFF Square and Gwangbok Street (Busan) here!

Read about my experience in Chungmuro, Namdaemun and Myeongdong here!

Read about my experience in Edae, Hongdae, D-Cube City and Dongdaemun here!

Read about my experience in N Seoul Tower, Namsangol Hanok Village, Garosugil and Go-To Mall here!

Read about my experience in Busan (KTX and Busan City Night View Tour Bus) here!


The author is reliving the memories of Korea with every post that she churns out...


Do follow me Twitter for the latest updates!